It’s Full of Stars

Going to a game park for a conference involving specialists in Africa seems like a natural, but the meeting I just attended was the first that I’ve been to in such a location. It wasn’t easy to get there, a six-hour drive across most of KwaZulu-Natal, but it was worth it, I thought. I’d recommend the park to anyone spending time in South Africa, though if you have a limited amount of time, Kruger National Park or the Okavango in Botswana are the holy grails of game viewing.

Ithala doesn’t have lions, so the camps don’t need to be fenced off the way that they are in Kruger. This also means guests can do a good deal of walking on their own near the camps and at designated places in the park, which is something I’m always keen to do. (Though I haven’t always been so smart about it: some years ago I went off on my own in an area where there were both lions and hippos and nearly got into serious trouble on both counts.) The park has a nice range of animals, and we were fortunate enough to see a good many of them.

For me the animals were secondary to the night sky, however. In mountainous or desert regions of the United States, you can still get very good views of the stars at night, but I have to say there’s nothing in the U.S. like the sky we saw in Ithala, in my experience. There are no lights besides the muted camp lights for many, many miles around the park, nothing at all. The camp is at elevation, and in the winter, the air around it is mostly clear, though occasionally the smell and sight of distant grass fires presents itself. Looking up at the Milky Way, undisguised by anything, with bushbabies making weird cries all around you in the trees, fills you with a kind of skin-prickling awe. I think I could have that sensation every single night and it would never get old or banal.

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Back in Durban

Back from the conference, which was held in northern KwaZulu-Natal, where there was no Internet access. I’m at a very slooooow wireless access point in a nearby mall, so lengthier entries (of which I have a few stored up) will have to wait until I’m somewhere where the access is a bit better.

Posted in Africa, Miscellany | 1 Comment

Come Together

Durban has, like every other South African city, an amazing amount of residential security, but it doesn’t have either the fortress feeling or looming menace of Johannesburg, a city that I honestly fear. Still, for all the efforts to reform policing since 1993, there is still none of the sense of police presence here that would be a basic expectation in most European or American cities. Nor, honestly, could one expect that to happen quickly or possibly ever in South Africa, given the scale of the issues that appeared after 1993 and the extent to which the police forces needed a total institutional overhaul.

It is always a reminder to me not only of the ways in which I take police for granted–and also how much we also take for granted the everyday disinclination of people not to engage in theft or violence even when they are in desperate circumstances or dire poverty. Listening to two stories from my hosts illustrated some of the strength underneath community life here.

One was about how neighborhoods banded together to buy security services in a way that reinforced rather than dissipated community–working with unions to create a networked security force that was stable and well-treated, working to create a progressive structure for fees so that homeowners paid in at variable rates depending on their incomes and property values, trying to make the security a part of the neighborhoods rather than faceless strangers posted at the outer walls of a remorseless fortress. As far as I can see right around where I’m staying, it’s worked pretty well. I don’t think I’d go for a stroll at 11pm down some of the smaller streets, mind you, but otherwise there’s a human, open feeling to things. The effort to get that more humane, community-friendly system into place sounds as if it was a pretty difficult project for all involved, though.

The other story that my friends told me concerned some vicious dogs that got loose from a house in the neighborhood and attacked one of them and their own dog while they were on a walk. There were a lot of interesting aspects to the story, but the relevant part in this context is that basically the entire local community came to their aid: some local students coming out of a field hockey game beat on the attacking dogs with their hockey sticks without thought for their own safety, people helped to transport my friends’ injured dog to a nearby vet, the domestic workers in the neighborhood worriedly checked in on the dog and my friend to find out the status of their injuries, a man ran eight blocks to find my friend’s husband, and some construction workers used some concrete barriers they had available to pen up the attacking dogs again as the owners weren’t around. Much of this might happen in close-knit urban neighborhoods in the US as well, of course, but we’d also expect the police to be part of the story eventually, to sort out the problem, take the dogs into custody, create an official record of the events that might or might not become relevant to later legal proceedings. Here, it’s just the community. It’s a really encouraging story in that context, the spontaneous collaboration of so many people for the common good, a kind of anti-Kitty Genovese narrative. The hard thing is to figure out first what makes that kind of spontaneous social network reliably appear, what the preconditions of its possibility are, and then to figure out what to do in places where it’s not happening. That in the end is why I look to policing and feel vaguely uncomfortable in its absence: it feels to me like the guarantee of some kind of last-instance infrastructure of order and coherence when everyday sociality can’t be counted on to supply it.

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Nature Red in Elbow and Foot

On really long flights, issues that are trivially ignorable at short distances (<5 hours) become more of an problem. In a lot of current coach seating on airlines, the biggest problem I run into sometimes is not where to place my legs, though that does require a lot of manuevering for anyone over 5′ 11″. It’s the question of elbows. On the aisle or the window, you have uncontested mastery over one side of your body, but the other is the unknown. The best part of flying with someone you know well is that you can generally dispense with the awkward unconscious struggle over territory and bodily contact and just go ahead and have your body sides touching.

On the London-Joberg leg this time, I was sitting next to an elbow aggressor, though, and that’s tough. The guy insisted on owning the entire real estate of his chair and a bit into mine as well. When you’re trying to sleep, having to clutch your right arm in order to keep it from colliding into the space already occupied by another person is pretty tough. (It didn’t help that Mr. Elbow also insisted on watching comedies all night on the in-flight entertainment and laughing at the top of his voice.) It may be that male awkwardness about body space and contact with other male bodies makes this more of a tension, I dunno. But the compression of space in both directions, between rows and between seats, makes flying distances a real agony.

Posted in Miscellany | 1 Comment

Durban

I’ve been to Durban a couple of times now, and always liked it. That’s partly the warming effect of having good friends here, and partly the cooling effect of the fact that I’ve always visited during June-August, when the weather in Durban is bearable.

On the whole, I continue to get good feelings about South Africa overall when I’m here as well. Still lots of energy and hustle and possibility in the air, too many circuits of capital and ideas and sociality for any government to easily ruin. Which is not to say that the national or provincial governments here are set on such ruination, either. Hopefully I can catch up on some of the local insight into the stories I’ve followed from a distance recently while I’m here.

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Arrived

In Durban now. It’s a pleasant, hazy day. My main objective at this point (and doubtless this is a wish of my friends as well) is a shower.

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In Transit

On my way to South Africa for what promises to be a fascinating conference on African Technopolitics. I’m vaguely nervous as my paper has a goodly chunk of material from the chapter of my work-in-progress that has given me the most trouble. I don’t know what everyone else is going to make of it. The paper’s also rather repetitive as I wanted to deal with the problem of unpredictability in technological history on several levels and so found myself restating my points quite a lot just to be sure I was staying focused.

I’ve written quite a lot in this space about the importance of open access models of scholarly dissemination. If you want an absolutely fantastic example, go to the University of Natal-Durban’s Department of History website and click on the “Research” tab and follow the link to past seminar presentations. (There isn’t a direct URL, which is something that I gather is going to be fixed). It’s very basic, but how many departments of history or anthropology at major American research universities do you know that maintain anything like this sort of archive of presentations, seminars, or scholarly work?

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Right now I’m sitting in Heathrow, where I’ll be for another six hours or so. I flew out of JFK last night; I’ll get to Johannesburg tomorrow morning and then a quick flight from there to Durban. I’m right at that point where I’m starting to feel that weird, almost flu-like sense that comes from long transits in airports and airplanes.

I’m still struck at how hostile many airports are to the kind of travel that many people are obliged to pursue, particularly the inevitable lay-overs. JFK is the king of suck as far as flying goes: it’s possibly the worst major airport in the world. Inconvenient and expensive to get to, and very poor services once you’re there. Yesterday afternoon, I got to my terminal in time for the World Cup, but the bar with the television sets had big signs up saying, “No World Cup here”. I asked why, and the guy behind the bar shrugged and gave me a hostile glare. So about a hundred people crowded into one of the gate waiting areas where it was on TV, until finally a second bar opened during the second half and put it on the screen. Total hostility all around from the folks working the terminal except for the British Airways staff and oddly enough, the TSA guys, who were the nicest and most professional I’ve seen anywhere in the US.

Heathrow’s ok, but again, just no recognition of what contemporary travel entails. I asked the British Airways help desk if there were any power outlets for laptop users. Blank stare. Then, “There are computers you can put coins into over there!”. (A couple of terminals where you can pay for Internet service by the minute or something). I finally found a desk next to a power outlet in a Terminal 1 lounge. It’s the ONLY one I’ve found, and I’m not the only one to have found it, either. The guy using it before me clearly recognized it was a rare treasure. (There’s some T-Mobile kiosks where you can plug in, but they come with chairs that could be used as torture devices in Gitmo if they run out of waterboards.) There are a few other outlets here so I can recharge later today if I need to. Also there’s some nice lounging chairs here that let me get a bit of a nap, thank god, but again, there is nowhere near enough of them. You can see about forty covetous stares watching the current occupants of the lounge chairs, waiting for a vacancy.

I’m also a bit sick of LONG flights where everyone can power their laptops with an appropriate converter except for the people flying steerage. Come on, throw us a frikken bone here. On the 747 I was on last night, there was only one section that couldn’t plug in. It’s not much to ask when you’ve got your knees jammed into the seatback in front of you, etcetera.

Posted in Africa, Blogging, Information Technology and Information Literacy, Miscellany | 4 Comments

World Cup

This is not a novel or unusual opinion, but I’m not really enjoying this World Cup much because of the combination of bad officiating and my terminal impatience with the diving and histrionics, especially when said dives are rewarded by bad officiating. I would freely cop to this reaction being partly a result of a local ideology of masculinity, that I find it greviously unmanly to see male athletes clutching their shins like five-year olds and bawling their eyes out, especially when said athletes come miraculously back to life as soon as it is seemly to do so. It’s also a vague feeling that global athletics are somehow even more filthy in their corruption than local athletics, Barry Bonds et al notwithstanding. I can think of a lot of baseball umps I’ve thought were chumps over the years, but not many where I thought the guy might be on the take in some fashion.

However, the Brazil v. France game was the single game so far that I’ve thoroughly enjoyed, even with a couple of dubious yellow cardings. It was a much more exciting game in every respect than almost any other. More of that…please.

Posted in Games and Gaming, Popular Culture | 3 Comments

Scattered Thoughts: War on Terror Edition

Listening to the BBC World Service on radio this morning, there was some kind of security consultant talking about bin Laden and Zarqawi. She was offering incredibly precise, strong readings of the current state of Islamist insurgents around the world, arguing that bin Laden is now largely irrelevant, that al Qaeda has no influence in Iraq, that bin Laden is just symbolic, and so on. For one, I was thinking, “JUST symbolic”? For another, I was thinking that this was roughly like listening to a live broadcast of a Roman augury: this entrail means this, this spleen means that. The expert was the same sort of person who used to confidently go on the air in the early 1980s and tell us about what was happening inside the Soviet government based on the order that various elderly officials appeared in the review stand at a military parade. I don’t care whether it’s right, left or center, prowar or antiwar: most of that stuff is bunkum. The people who really seem to have dug in and committed to reportage, the George Packers and Anthony Shadids and Ron Suskinds, seem to have a healthy respect for what is not known as well as what’s unknowable. The people who are in the heart of things, I suspect, know even more about what they don’t know. (Nod to Donald Rumsfeld: he got a lot of shit for his statement about the unknown unknowns, but it was one of the few smart things he’s ever said.) Not that this seems to have checked the public hubris of the American or British political leadership, of course. Perhaps because they have listened and still do listen too much to the kind of experts who peddle certainty the same way street-corner pushers sell crack cocaine.

Much of what is going to happen on the global scale of this conflict is not readable in the daily press of events, only in the slow accumulation of changes, movements, flows of money and information and organization. This has been one of my chief complaints all along about both the rhetoric and concrete policies of the Bush Administration. If you take them to have even an ounce of sincerity about a commitment to struggle against oppressive or destructive forms of fundamentalism, illiberalism, extremism, terrorism, then you need to abandon that struggle as a political platform on which to score short-term victories. It’s got to be a consensus policy that looks to the long-term.

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Another theme I’ve written about before, but that has been much on my mind of late: what is the thing that makes the United States a legitimate or worthy adversary for extremism, terror, illiberalism? Why do we stand against all that? The answer of the Bush Administration, I think, has been: because we’re Americans, a reconfiguration of Manifest Destiny, a nationalist version of exceptionalism. Because we’re God’s people, or have a special national soul, because of our values or culture.

That is simply the wrong answer. Hey, I’m not ashamed to say that I like American culture, that I think it’s honestly preferable to the national cultures of many other societies. Nor would I disagree that a good deal of what makes the United States a free society comes from the habitus of its citizens. But in the end, the thing that is both exceptional about the United States and potentially exportable or shareable with the world in a struggle against fundamentalism or oppression is not apple pie and chevrolets. It’s a basic insight about the nature of governmental (and possibly non-governmental) power: that power must be constrained to be productive, that the rights of individuals are not provisioned by the state but define the limits of state power.

Amendment IX of the US Constitution may be its heart and soul: “The enumeration in the Constitution, of certain rights, shall not be construed to deny or disparage others retained by the people.” States around the world, whether weak or strong, failed or successful, imagine themselves to fill any void, to claim all powers. What rights their citizens possess, they possess because the state gives them their rights, and the state conceptually fills all the infinite spaces of possibility beyond. The US Constitution sees it differently: what rights humans possess, they possess before the state exists. The state is a steward of those rights, not the provisioner of them. What the state is not given as its powers, it is not permitted to do: all of what is unnamed is the people’s, not the state’s. In the 20th Century, the United States even began to extend, rightfully, this vision to other concentrations of power that can suborn the ability of individuals to act freely, in accordance with their rights, such as monopolies.

That’s what stands against terror. Which is, again, why the Bush Administration and the Republican Congressional leadership has been so fatally wrong-headed. It is a repeated, insistent article of faith within the Administration that what the executive office needs is a complete liberation from limitations on its power, that the President can do whatever is needful in pursuit of his goals, that oversight is treason, that the public is to be protected but not trusted, that rights are not human but American (and possibly not even that). That the Constitution is to be used for trivial statutory goals like restricting flag-burning or abortion policy as opposed to fundamental dispensations of liberty. It’s not just that this is a strategic mistake at a global level, that trying to lead from the premise that only Americans (and Tony Blair) have the proper national consciousness about extremism obviously alienates even potential allies, as opposed to a defense of liberty on terms that could be shared and applied in variant forms across the world. It’s an error at the deepest possible level of world-historical reasoning, a misunderstanding not just of the way forward but of the reason why we should be involved in a struggle in the first place.

Fixing that mistake is going to take more than closing Gitmo (which in this Administration probably just means a greater reliance on renditions and prison camps further away from public view). It’s going to take a completely different leadership at every level.

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Lots of people have beaten up on the Euston Manifesto, and rightfully so. Not the least because the people who wrote it should be, by dint of their declared convictions, the first people to understand what’s gone wrong at the level of global politics in the last six years, and yet, they seem pitifully obsessed with phantoms, with the past rather than the future. It’s as if they’re trapped forever in a “New Times” meeting in the early 1990s in England or waking up with a hangover somewhere around 1977, wondering where the smartly dressed SDS of 1965 became the Weather Underground. I’ve been there, sort of, and yes, I can surely get on the bandwagon of complaints about the identarian, Third-World-romanticist, crypto-revolutionist left depending on the provocation and circumstance. But if you’re writing a manifesto, for god’s sake, a platform defining your foundational commitments, you’ve got to do better than trying to poke fingers in your favored eyes. You’ve got to set out some ironclad principles and then see, with an absolutely open mind and a consistent view, where those principles require you to be. The Eustonites wanted to craft a document that has all the hideousness and political calculation of an American party platform, a document that guarantees in advance that all its signatories can just return back to warblogging, flogging Angela Davis, to grinding the same old axes. It says it’s “fresh” when it’s as pungent as a five-day old tuna rotting on the fishmonger’s ice. A fresh document would set out foundational principles at some level deeper than saying, “We are against terrorism”, at some level other than a laundry list of pet causes, and would obligate its signatories to take stock of where and to whom their political and social fidelity lies.

A manifesto should be predictive, a guide to future action, not a set of scores being settled.

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Here’s an analogy for you. Bush’s closest analogue among post-1945 presidents is Kennedy. Yeah, I know, that’s going to seem as if I’m saying Vietnam = Iraq. Well, it does somewhat, but the specifics on the ground and the surrounding circumstances are really very different. But the analogy is close in terms of the inner attitudes and public postures governing policy, as well as the enduring political mystique, and it might help some of Bush’s antagonists to understand the enduring popularity of Bush among some of his constituents. Having been only a fetus in 1963, I’ve always found the aura of Camelot pretty baffling: a hardcore Cold Warrior whose Adminstration stumbled on every major Cold War initiative it undertook except for the Cuban missile crisis (Kennedy’s Afghanistan, perhaps?), who acted on civil rights only when absolutely compelled to, whose personal conduct and honesty were lacking, whose policy initiatives were often poorly executed. Why is that guy a hero to liberals? But who flattered the self-image of many young educated people, who spoke in inspirational terms and gave people a larger vision of themselves and their times, who connected to the Eastern Establishment with particular intensity. Substitute some of the constituencies and forms and subtract Kennedy’s wit and ease with the press, and you’ve got some of the same mix of things going now. Not the least of which is the kind of hubris that blinds people to the long-term implications of what they’re doing, and which leaves others to clean up the mess.

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I think it’s a mistake for the Democrats who are against the war to pin their star to a demand for troop withdrawals. I think it’s politically wiser to make this coming campaign about competence, accountability, responsibility. Somebody asks a Democrat, “Do you support our troops?” and I want the Democrat to be able to credibly turn that question around on his Republican opponent by saying, “Sure, I do: it’s my opponent who doesn’t. He’s the one who backed an Administration that put our soldiers in harm’s way without the least bit of preparation for the mission it was assigning them to accomplish. He’s the one who backed an Administration that threw out millions of dollars of groundwork for an occupation because it contradicted their pet orthodoxies. He’s the one working for an Administration that behaves like a kid who doesn’t want to hear contradictory information and shouts ‘la la la can’t HEAR you’. He’s the one who supports a political leadership that fired or shoved aside military leaders who told them what they didn’t want to hear. He’s the guy who collaborates with the men who didn’t send enough troops and didn’t properly equip the ones it did send.”

And so on: you get the point. It might be that a phased withdrawal will be the best thing to do if there’s a change in leadership, but why handcuff yourself to something that specific now? You have to be honest and say that you’ll consider all the options, but what you can point out is that considering all the options is exactly what the Republican leadership has steadfastly refused to do for the last six years. And that can be tied in turn to the attack on Republican corruption, to say that in both cases, it’s the arrogance of power that’s most at fault here, that the people who have been in charge since 2000 have shown themselves incapable of handling the responsibility of political power.

I’m not saying the Democrats don’t need a positive political platform of their own, but as usual, they’re handling that job piecemeal, in terms of specific policy initiatives (troop withdrawal, etcetera). On the deeper platform issue, I can only point back to my post-2004 observation that the Democrats kind of have to decide whether to go communitarian or libertarian in a fairly profound way, and note that more than a few people have noticed the political and philosophical appeal of the libertarian option lately. That platform would help direct the party’s address to the question of Iraq in a more profound way than just figuring out how or when to talk about troop withdrawals.

Posted in Politics | 5 Comments

Chainsaw Music

When I was a surly teenager, one of my certainties was that wherever I lived as an adult, it wasn’t going to be a suburb. The city or the country, but not a suburb. I think that’s a common affectation among middle-class kids with an intellectual or artistic bent, for a variety of reasons. It’s reinforced by a lot of loathing for suburban life in various novels, films and so on (Steven Spielberg notwithstanding).

So now I live in a suburb, and you know, I really like it quite a lot. You get up on a Saturday morning and you hear in the distance chainsaws being used to prune trees, lawnmowers, weedwhackers. Five doors up, somebody’s painting the house. Our neighbors have been doing a ton of work on their yard, and it looks great. I feel like a slacker: our yard is a bit overgrown, the backyard is kind of a mess, since the previous owner really didn’t do much with it. I have plans but they take money and time, both of which can be in short supply. First a rock garden around the shady side, maybe a little pond, then a patio over in the overgrown, messy corner, get somebody professional to make the lawn in the other half of the backyard happen. (I tried seeding two seasons in a row, and it’s a kind of mangy looking lawn that’s appeared.) In the meantime, I pick our blueberries and sour cherries and June is graced with pies and tarts. I make bookshelves and birdhouses in the garage. (Those reading this blog last summer will be glad to know that I still have all my fingers and thumbs, and though my first bookshelf will remain safely hidden from the sight of humanity, my second turned out just great and is now gracing my home office.) I’m looking at treehouse designs. The fireflies dance over the lawn at night.

I’m trying to remember why I thought the suburbs kind of sucked. The suburb I live in now is different than the ones I lived in as a teenager, more like the ones I lived in when I was really young and my dad was just getting started in his profession. The houses are closer together, it’s more neighborly and less manorial. When I was a kid, our houses were a long ways away from where my dad worked, in relative terms, whereas in this case I’m five minutes by car from the college. I think the commute was one of the things I didn’t like about my childhood suburbs, the toll it took on my dad.

Oh, I see some of what was an issue for me as a teenager, sure. Our block is reasonably diverse, but there are all sorts of hidden boundaries and limits. There’s a slight whiff of the bad side of small-town panoptica in the air: as one of our neighbors commented when we moved in, “Don’t have an affair, because everyone will know it.” (From what we’ve pieced together, this may have been a literal comment about the experience of the previous inhabitants of our house.) I went to a parents’ orientation meeting for our daughter’s kindergarden this coming fall and I couldn’t help but thinking, “I’m going to spend the next 13 years at meetings like this with these folks”, and eavesdropping on a few of the conversations around me that was not an entirely pleasant sensation. I can see where my daughter as a teenager is going to feel a bit trapped before she can drive, though there’s a commuter rail into Philadelphia that’s a close walk or bike ride from our house, which is something I didn’t have access to growing up.

I think a bit of what I was feeling as a teenager was, “I’m better than all of you”. Given how often I was beaten up for being an egghead in elementary and junior high, I don’t repent of that sensation: it was an important compensatory way to cope and keep my desire for knowledge intact. These days, I’m feeling pretty mellow about those kinds of drives: better than who? Than the hardworking, pleasant folks living in my neighborhood (who include, I should note, a few of my colleagues)? Naw. Hey, I’ll still give you an argument when I think you’re wrong about things, and my frequency of thinking that I’m right and other people are wrong is still up in the stratosphere, but I feel no urge to communicate in my every action some sense of cultural distance or superior bearing. I’m just a guy: I teach, I write, whatever. My bookshelf and my birdhouses feel just as satisfying to me at this point as working on scholarship, the sense of ownership over our home and yard is a warming comfort, the relative sense of safety and room for raising a child is a load off my mind, and in that, I think I’ve become a Suburban Dad just like any other.

Posted in Domestic Life | 10 Comments