Swat Beijing Summer 2009

May 31, 2009

May 31, 2009: Observations–Mary

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: — mprager1 @ 12:38 am

Welcome to take Beijing train, or why I like the subway system in Beijing.

The single-ride train tickets here cost about fourteen cents. They’re flexible and plastic and about the size of a credit card, hard to lose, easy to find in a pocket. Since they contain an electronic sensor, you can press the card against a scanner at the ticket wicket without having to stop and impede the current of human traffic. Also, the subway system reuses the cards, so you have to relinquish yours (sad) before you leave the station unless you have a rechargeable train pass. The greatest thing about these cards is that each one of them has a map of the entire subway system printed on the back, so as long as you know where you’re going, you’re never lost.

And buses are good, too.

But so far I’ve found taking taxis and riding buses from church to church on Sunday mornings and afternoons to be the best way to go. A few buses run up and down Di’Anmen Dajie, the long road that passes by the Kuanjie church. My translator, a linguistics graduate student at Tsinghua University, and I hopped on a yellow bus after leaving the Haidian Christian Church early Sunday afternoon and chatted about the service we’d observed, and in particular about the woman sentry posted outside of the elevator on the third floor. The petite older woman was sitting on a chair outside of the offices, probably to spare the church officials and preachers from curious visitors like me. I didn’t understand much of what she was saying to my translator, but eventually she led us to the office and introduced us to a preacher.

As we were leaving the Haidian area on the bus, my translator, who is not religious, turned to me and said that the first thing the woman had said to us when the elevator doors opened and we stepped out was, “Do you believe?”He remarked that she and other religious people that he’d met in Beijing had a mystical or secretive aspect to them, which I find to be true about religious people anywhere. In any case, looking for the Kuanjie church, we’d taken several wrong buses and retraced our steps over and over again on the sidewalk in the heat.

A bus traffic guide pointed us in one direction, a passerby in another, and the address I’d jotted down in my notebook wasn’t much help either. According to my translator, these bus traffic guides tend to be people who were laid off from their jobs and hired by the government, whether temporarily or permanently I couldn’t say. They tend to know their way around the area fairly well, and it turned out that the address I’d found on a website was wrong. Following the guide’s directions we finally made it to the church and found that, sadly, the wrought-iron gates were locked.

But the food is better.

It was about six in the evening by then. My translator introduced me to a narrow restaurant hidden in a small lane by Beihai where we were served a huge bowl of white fish marinated in la-yu, a red, hot spicy oil, and a dish of woodear mushrooms [photo to come], the combination of which redeemed an otherwise slightly unproductive afternoon.

-Mary

May 30, 2009

May 30, 2009: The Central Academy of Fine Arts–Miyuki

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: — ebaker1 @ 12:37 am

Klimt-student

I went to the Central Academy of Fine Arts (CAFA) today with my camcorder, a notepad, and high hopes. CAFA is the biggest and most government-funded arts university in China and I couldn’t wait to see what high profile teachers and passionate art students would have to say about the current art climate and their experiences at their well-known school.

Luckily my first interviewees at Tsinghua University’s Art School had friends studying painting at CAFA so I had an interview with a current senior in the undergraduate program. The first thing I noticed as I arrived at CAFA was the wide campus and the large modern sculptures decorating the manicured lawns. Before the interview my interviewee, Rui, showed me around the final undergraduate Chinese painting exhibition. Believe it or not, the detail of the Gustav Klimt-like painting above is from the show. I was blown away by the wide variety that Chinese painting encompasses and learned from Rui that she believed the most successful Chinese paintings used Western style painting techniques to express Chinese thought. Interesting. Her interview was pretty interesting too since unlike most Chinese parents (or all parents), her parents want her to become a professional artist.

Later though I found the undergrad and graduate level oil painting studios which were endlessly fascinating. My interpreter and I found several with at least 15 easels in each, with first year students painting from live models. And for the record, all of the paintings were spectacular. The graduate students were of course great painters too, but extremely mature and full of great insights. While I don’t want to bore you with the many anecdotes I picked up, one particularly insightful quote is the following: “Just like doctors heal their sick patients, the role of the artist is to document what’s happening in the community, to show people what’s wrong so that the art can heal and be a catalyst.” I was completely inspired.

Despite how exhausted I am now, I’m really excited about how the day went. Well, we’re about to go to dinner now. That’s all for now! Thanks for reading :)

-Miyuki

May 29, 2009

May 29, 2009: The Great Wall–Ben

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: — byelsey1 @ 12:32 am

Hey Gang!

We went to the Great Wall today. For those of you who do not know, the Great Wall is really, really long, and in China.

We visited the Mutianyu region of the Great Wall, about 90 minutes’ drive from our hotel. The Wall traces the ridges of of the mountains north of Beijing, and twists and turns to follow the mountain range. The state of preservation is miraculous, and it was not crowded. It helped that we also had the first blue sky we’d seen in a week. We were so disoriented that we went all Freeman’s Angels on that Wall.

Freeman's Angels

Also, they built a toboggan chute going down it. No, seriously, some guys laid down a metal chute that winds its way down the side of one of the mountains. $4.40 a ride. They were also selling “I climbed the Great Wall” T-shirts.

Tobogganing!

We were taken around by Will’s dad’s friend and Will’s dad’s friend’s wife, who were nice enough to spend the whole day taking us around Beijing. They also took us to a Yanjing beer factory:

Yanjing Beer!

and the Bird’s Nest. We met the Fuwa and took pictures with them at the Bird’s Nest.

The Red Fuwa and us

Best of the day:

ni chi le ma?

lit. Have you eaten yet?

Traditional greeting

ni li le ma?

lit. Are you divorced yet?

an innovation of Wang Ming, Will’s dad’s friend

zaijian!

-Ben

May 27, 2009

May 27, 2009: Interview with Anthropology Grad Student–Amanda

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: — amorris1 @ 12:28 am

Today, Will and I had an interview with a grad student in anthropology at Peking University. Every time we go to Beida, we get lost on campus, despite all kinds of bilingual signage. It’s kind of a problem. Anyway, our interview-ee, Ma Yinqiu, was just really really cool! She was so Swattie, in a “save the world” kind of way. She’d done fieldwork on the impact of poor education on women and girls in the Yi people. Ethnicity/nationality play out in really interesting ways in China. Approximately 5% of the population is comprised of ethnic minorities, who are people of Asian descent/are from China, but are not Han Chinese (Han Chinese = what everybody thinks of as Chinese, the culture you studied in class); think people from inner Mongolia, Tibet, etc. Anyway, peoples who are officially recognized as ethnic minorities have some degree of political autonomy, but are seriously disadvantaged in other ways, such as their access to educational and economic opportunity. Maybe the best American analogy is to think of ethnic minorities as vaguely like Native Americans who live on reservations.

Anyway, Ma Yinqiu (the grad student) had lived with the Yi tribe in Sichuan province for 6 months. Drug usage is pretty common–she didn’t know the English word and we hadn’t heard of the Chinese word, but I think she was talking about heroin. As a result of people’s poverty/being unable to buy their own needles, the spread of HIV is pretty rampant. And because most women have never been exposed to the concepts of sexual health, safer sex, contraceptives, or STIs, HIV spreads to the female population from the male migrant worker population (there is really no work in the Yi’s traditional homeland, so a lot of men go the cities as migrant workers.) Anyway, she did a lot of sex ed/preventative education while she was there, and wrote her thesis documenting the problem/what she thought people could do about it.

For me, the most thought-provoking part of the interview was when I asked her if she considered herself an activist. She thought for a moment and said, “No, I don’t think so. It’s not really about me; I don’t want my name or my face out there. I just want to help these people and be an interpreter between them and the rest of China.” That is a really interesting way to think about activism. I’m going to have to think on this one.

Then she took us around the campus and she and Will and I bonded about our shared love for trashy American television. Apparently there are Beida students who are just as obsessed with Gossip Girl as I am. Who knew?
xoxo amanda ling

TV Show of the Day:
Prison Break
(Beloved by Beida students for being more realistic than Korean dramas. Hmmmmm.)

May 23, 2009

May 23, 2009: We’re official now–Miyuki

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: — ebaker1 @ 4:29 am

Getting business cardsAfter a 16 hour plane ride, getting my temperature checked twice for Swine Flu and walking through heat detectors, I arrived in Beijing exhausted but excited. My groupmates Amanda, Mary, Will, Ben and our advisor Professor Huang were already at the Piao HOME Inn in Wangfujing, at the center of Beijing.

The first thing we decided to do as a group was to get business cards. Nothing fancy but something professional-looking, we told the store owners. And they are quite professional! I just gave a business card (mingpian in Chinese) to a potential interviewee today and by the look on his face and his agreement to be interviewed, our purchases were more than justified.

Anyways, Beijing is bustling, and the sky is grayer than I remember it being last summer I came. The food has given some of us….”bathroom trouble” … but hey at least it’s cheap and good!

As for our research topics, here’s what we sent the fellowship:

The overall title of this research endeavor is “Living Near the Central Power: Government Policy and the Realities of Life in Contemporary Beijing.” The goal is to “evaluate how concrete government actions affect residents in Beijing,” and “how Beijingers work with, around, and through government policy.”

  • Miyuki Baker, ’12, “The Effects of the Chinese Government in Training Contemporary Artists in Beijing Higher Education”
  • William Lin, ’12, “The Changing Nature of HIV/AIDS Prevention and Treatment in Contemporary China”
  • Amanda Ling Morrison, ’11, “Disparate Impact: Looking at the Effects of the One-Child Policy across Socio-Economic Strata”
  • Mary Ayn Prager, ’11, “Outsiders and Insiders: Comparing Perspectives on Faith of Chinese Christians and Non-Christian Chinese on the Streets of Beijing”
  • Benjamin Yelsey, ’11, “Government Impact on Public High School Science Education in Beijing”

Well that’s all for today, but keep an eye out for new entries. We’re planning on writing about our research of course, but also things that we’ve noticed about daily life in Beijing–food, housing, the people and other miscellaneous topics.

-Miyuki

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